East Meets Midwest

Snippets of life in Japan from a former Cook resident

 

 

-Glen Hill-

"If you want to send Glen any comments or questions, feel free to drop a line at

glenahill@gmail.com

 

I’ve been living on the northern island of Hokkaido, Japan for ten years. I’m not the only American in Japan, of course, and I’m not the only former Cook resident either. In 1998, I left a job with a biotech company in Seattle, and I found myself teaching English in Japan to make ends meet. Things have turned out in my favor, and I have gone from a conversation instructor to a high school teacher to my current job as assistant professor at a science university, with some freelance proofreading of scientific papers on the side.

 

I’ve been writing a monthly newsletter for nearly all that time and sending it via e-mail to family and friends (scattered around the globe). The purpose of putting it out was twofold: to maintain a lifeline with people I know, and to inform them about Japan and my life. The lifeline meant giving myself a deadline so that I’d continue to open my eyes to the world around me and put it on paper in my own perspective. Informing people was meant to educate (as well as amuse), and perhaps dispel a few stereotypes. My newsletters tell about my own life here, my family, my job, and about Japanese culture as I see it (and as how it probably should be seen by foreigners).

 

Don has encouraged me to make a contribution to the Cook homepage with my newsletter. In line with keeping some details of my life private, I’ve decided to trim it down to one article, probably a cultural one that I hope will entertain and educate readers. I’m not sure how long these “columns” will run, but let’s give it a go and see with this first installment.
 
 

Christmas/New Year Round-up

Chicken is the traditional bird for feasting in Japan during Christmas, and it is no surprise that many people “flock” to Kentucky Fried Chicken to sate their appetites then. Most homes don’t have a large enough oven anyway; kitchens here commonly have a stove that is comprised of 2-3 burners and a small drawer where you can grill fish. Christmas music and decorations abound, though, so most Americans can still feel like home when they go shopping. We did like most Japanese and set up a tree and had Santa come (mostly for my son Kento, who laid out milk and chocolates to fatten up the old elf). Christmas Eve dinner for us, however, was sushi so Christmas Day dinner had to include some chicken. I whipped up a chicken parmesan meal to fulfill that tradition, and we also celebrated with a chocolate Christmas cake (another Japanese notable for this time of year).

 

Chicken is the traditional bird for feasting in Japan during Christmas, and it is no surprise that many people “flock” to Kentucky Fried Chicken to sate their appetites then. Most homes don’t have a large enough oven anyway; kitchens here commonly have a stove that is comprised of 2-3 burners and a small drawer where you can grill fish. Christmas music and decorations abound, though, so most Americans can still feel like home when they go shopping. We did like most Japanese and set up a tree and had Santa come (mostly for my son Kento, who laid out milk and chocolates to fatten up the old elf). Christmas Eve dinner for us, however, was sushi so Christmas Day dinner had to include some chicken. I whipped up a chicken parmesan meal to fulfill that tradition, and we also celebrated with a chocolate Christmas cake (another Japanese notable for this time of year).

 

A couple of days later, Kento and my wife left Obihiro city via train for Sapporo to visit my in-laws, leaving me to do some much needed schoolwork until the thirtieth at which time I followed. New Year’s Eve was spent as most Japanese families do, with a big meal and watching a songfest on TV until the midnight bells chimed. Many families here have elaborate end-of-year meals with tons of holiday foods (osechi ryori) prepared laboriously by Moms (who also end up cleaning the home from top to bottom as well). They are lots of little dishes arranged carefully in lacquered wood trays or boxes, and if you buy them it can mean paying as much as US$400. Many of these little treats means a gourmet’s delight despite the hard work, and if Mom can make all this, it will last for several days, thus freeing her up for a good rest. Our meal wasn’t traditional. Instead, we had our own typical meal where everyone gets to make handmade sushi, and there were plenty of other store-bought stomach-fillers like smoked ham and fish, salad, and cheeses.

New Year’s time is a bigger holiday event in Japan than Christmas. Many shops and offices close down for a few days to a week, leaving a special decoration on or near their front doors as a reminder of good luck for the coming year. Some are bamboo stalks with pine tree branches (the kadomatsu), and others involve a shimekazari hanging (a sacred rope with folded paper strips, in many designs) to ward off evil. Employees celebrate the end of the year with dinner parties, and then in early January they celebrate the upcoming year with even more parties. Homes also hang decorations like the shimekazari, but in addition they may have other things on counter tops and entryways. These usually include a kagamimochi, which is a snowman-like pile of pounded cooked rice cakes with a small orange (mikan) on top. Like some people, Yoshie’s parents also have a special flower arrangement that Yoshie herself sets up, courtesy of her 7 years of ikebana training.

On New Year’s Eve or Day, many people make a pilgrimage to a local shrine to toss a coin to the gods and make a wish for good luck in the coming year. The bell chimes 108 times at midnight to ring out and stir away the 108 sins we mortals are afflicted with. We waited until after we had returned to Obihiro to visit the shrine. Lots of people were there, some in kimonos, to pay their respects. Like many, we also bought a replacement good luck charm which we keep hanging in our car, and Yoshie & Kento also chipped in a few yen to buy a good luck horoscope. When that is read, to make it come true, one ties it to a tree or string on the shrine grounds, and later the priests burn them in some kind of ritual. Sort of like blowing out candles on a birthday cake.

Back to New Year’s Day, we went to one of Yoshie’s aunt’s to gorge ourselves for a long noontime meal that stretched into mid-afternoon. Fifteen people were there, but Kento was the only one under 21. One uncle gave him a remote-controlled car, and since the new batteries needed a 3-hour charge, and he was impatient, he spent a few hours crashing into furniture and walls between 10-minute charges. The lunch consisted of finger foods, a real potluck of stuff sweet, sour, salty, and overflowing with soy sauce. Beer flowed copiously, too, so most people took taxis or buses home. As was tradition, Kento got special envelopes from the aunts and uncles that contained money (otoshidama) as a New Year’s present. We handed out the same to people whose kids or grandkids hadn’t shown up

We stayed in Sapporo until Saturday the third, then hopped a train back to Obihiro to allow ourselves a day to recuperate, do laundry, and restock the cupboards and fridge. I started work that next Monday, and Kento began a 5-day intensive ice skating course. Before I went to Sapporo, I’d left belated presents from my sister for Kento under our Christmas tree, and when he saw them as he walked in the door, he was so bowled over that he fell backward onto the sofa.

Our mail had arrived while we were gone. That included the traditional stack of New Year’s cards (nengajo). People send these specially designed postcards to friends and family and practically anyone they want to remain in contact with, even if it’s been decades since they’ve seen them. The cards usually say Happy New Year in English or Japanese, plus some words in Japanese wishing people well, leaving a tiny space for writing a personalized note. They also usually have a decoration of one of the signs of the Chinese zodiac, so this year the theme was the Year of the Ox, and as a result most cards had pictures of bulls on them. Luckily for us, we have only about 40-50 people with whom we remain in touch. Nengajo are delivered on January first, so Post Office workers have no rest then. As usual, we discovered a few cards from people we had not sent to, so we were obligated (so says my wife) to dash off reply cards that day, so she had no rest that day, either

 
Ad from KFC for Christmas
 
One type of shimekazari door decoration
 

Another type of shimekazari
 
Kadomatsu floor decoration of bamboo and pine
Rice cakes and orange make a kagamimochi
 

Traditional New Year food (osechi ryori)
 

Envelopes with money for kids (otoshidama)
 
Shrine scene at midnight
 
Horoscopes hanging on the right.
New Year's wishes hanging on the left.
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
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